Your New Life Overseas--Mexico (Mazatlán) Read online

  Your New Life

  In Mexico

  (Mazatlán)

  Kathleen Peddicord

  With Lee Harrison

  PLUME

  An imprint of Penguin Random House LLC

  375 Hudson Street

  New York, New York 10014

  Copyright © 2017 by Kathleen Peddicord

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  REGISTERED TRADEMARK—MARCA REGISTRADA

  Map design by Helena Kletochkina

  ISBN 9780525533825

  While the author has made every effort to provide accurate telephone numbers, Internet addresses, and other contact information at the time of publication, neither the publisher nor the author assumes any responsibility for errors or for changes that occur after publication. Further, the publisher does not have any control over and does not assume any responsibility for author or third-party websites or their content.

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  CONTENTS

  Title Page

  Copyright

  Map

  Introduction | Why Mexico is #1

  I | Why Would Anyone Want to Live in Mazatlán?

  II | Is Mazatlán the Place for You?

  III | The Best of Mazatlán Up Close

  IV | Your Own Home in Mazatlán

  V | What Will It Really Cost You to Live in Mazatlán?

  VI | Easy to Become a Resident

  VII | How Good Is the Health Care?

  VIII | What’s Not to Like About Mazatlán?

  IX | They’ve Done It . . . And You Can, Too (Real-Life Mazatlán Success Stories)

  X | Frequently Asked Mazatlán Questions

  INTRODUCTION

  WHY MEXICO IS #1

  Over the past four decades, Americans have voted Mexico the world’s number one place to live or retire in the way that really counts: they’ve packed up and moved there. This country is home to more American expats and retirees than any other, at least one million and as many as two million, depending on the survey.

  This shouldn’t surprise anyone. It’s easier for an American to get to Mexico than to any country other than Canada.

  Why do Americans choose to go south of the Rio Grande rather than to the Great White North?

  The weather!

  Americans looking to start a new life in a new country primarily seek three things: warm weather, beautiful beaches, and a low cost of living. Mexico competes handily in all three categories.

  This big, diverse country offers dozens of great living options, from colorful and historic colonial cities like San Miguel de Allende, Cuernavaca, Guanajuato, and Oaxaca to beach towns like Playa del Carmen and Tulum (on the Caribbean coast) and Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlán (on the Pacific).

  While the living is not as cheap as it was in the 1970s, when Americans began migrating here in volume, it’s a global bargain and more of a budgeter’s delight right now than it’s been in a long time thanks to the US dollar’s strength against the Mexican peso.

  In some parts of the country, this translates to super real estate deals. But even where real estate trades in US dollars (as it does in many Mexican markets, including Mazatlán), the strong dollar makes everything else—from a liter of gasoline and a week’s worth of groceries to a suite of bedroom furniture and a night out on the town—a bargain. Two can dine five-star, enjoying three courses and good wine, for less than 50 bucks.

  7 More Reasons to Choose Mexico

  The country is familiar, from its administrative setup (the Mexican government is a stable democracy, with executive, legislative, and judicial branches functioning in a similar way to those in the United States) to its big-footprint shopping. If you’re itching for an adventure in a foreign land that’s not too foreign, Mexico could be the experience you seek.

  It’s easy to go back and forth, making it a top choice for part-time living. Drive down as often as you like without worrying about plane fare.

  All the North American attention from both expats and tourists means that many Mexicans, especially in the service industry, speak English. This can make things like navigating the residency process at the immigration office and managing the real estate purchase process with your attorney much easier.

  Property markets in many areas of Mexico are depressed. The Great Recession took its toll in this country, especially in the areas popular as second-home markets among Americans. Many still have not fully recovered, making for a nice buyer’s advantage.

  Automatic six-month tourist stays and easy and fast immigration make it possible to come and go and spend as much time in the country as you’d like. You can maintain a second home here (a place you rent out when you’re not using it yourself, say) without having to bother with the expense of obtaining formal resident status.

  Moving to Mexico can be as hassle-free as an international move gets. Nothing’s as easy as loading up a truck and driving south. Your entire moving budget could be gas and tolls.

  You can return easily to the United States to use Medicare. If you’re considering this move as a retiree, nearing or over the age of sixty-five, this can be Mexico’s most compelling advantage. Mexico offers excellent health care, but Medicare won’t pay for it—with limited exceptions, Medicare doesn’t cross any border. However, if you retire in Mexico, you’d be only a drive or quick flight away from accessing your benefits.

  This means keeping and continuing to pay for Medicare coverage in addition to any other health insurance you might opt for. This can be a good strategy for a Medicare-eligible retiree moving to any foreign country, a safety net.

  Of course, Mexico is an interesting and appealing option for reinventing your life at any age. Among this country’s many attractive lifestyle options, one that stands out is Mazatlán. If you don’t want to choose between living in a city and living at the beach, in Mazatlán you don’t have to. . . .

  I

  WHY WOULD ANYONE WANT TO LIVE IN MAZATLÁN?

  Mazatlán is one of the few places in the world where you can walk for miles on an uncrowded beach within the city limits.

  Real city, beautiful beaches, and walkable colonial center . . . popular expat choice and authentic Mexican resort town that manages to feel homey . . .

  It’s hard to pin Mazatlán down.

  Located about midway along Mexico’s Pacific coast, Mazatlán has been out of favor among tourists and expats for decades but is making a comeback. The renaissance has been focused on the city’s historic center, which has undergone an impressive facelift and now rivals Mazatlán’s twenty miles of beach in drawing attention.

  The focal point for this renaissance is Plazuela Machado, which is now surrounded by busy outdoor cafés and international restaurants. Forming the eastern border of the plaza is Calle Carnaval, which is pedestrians-only at the square.

  Another reason Mazatlán is gaining popularity among North Americans is its excellent winter weather. From December through March, daytime temperatures hover in the high seventies, lows in the low sixties, and there’s little to no rain.

  Between July and October, on the other hand, it’s hotter (temperatures are regularly ninety degrees and warmer) and much more humid (m
ost of the annual rainfall is seen between July and September). This makes Mazatlán an ideal choice for snowbirding.

  Mazatlán lies about 720 miles south of the Arizona border, making it a thirteen-hour straight shot down Highway 15D. What a luxury to be able to throw everything you need in the car and drive to your new life overseas without worrying about what the airlines will or won’t let you bring with you.

  If you’d rather fly, Mazatlán is a two-hour nonstop flight from Phoenix. Nonstop service is available as well from Dallas, Los Angeles, and Minneapolis. From Canada, you can fly direct from Edmonton, Calgary, Toronto, and Vancouver, making Mazatlán one of the most convenient destinations anywhere in Latin America for Canadians.

  How Local Do You Want to Go?

  Mazatlán is at once a real Mexican city of about half a million people, a resort town, and home to a sizable American and Canadian expat community. You can choose to associate primarily with fellow expats, speaking mostly English and easing your way into your new life in Mazatlán aided by people like you who’ve already made the move. Or you can choose to live in a Mexican setting, speaking mostly Spanish and immersing yourself in Mexico’s culture.

  Centro Histórico is the place to base yourself if you want more Mexico, less resort. The areas around Plazuela Machado and Olas Altas beach are populated by tourists and expats, but the rest of Centro Histórico is old-fashioned Mexico. Walk two blocks north and two blocks east from Plazuela Machado, and you’re in the middle of a bustling downtown that is genuine Latin America, with hundreds of small shops, banks, businesses, parks, and locals going about their daily business.

  Centro Histórico is also the right choice if you want to be able to walk everywhere you need to go and avoid the expense of owning a car.

  The real and unique appeal of life in Centro Histórico is that it’s city living—on the beach. Along the city’s edge are twenty miles of well-maintained sand beaches lining warm, swimmable waters. Much of this beachfront is bordered by a wide boardwalk that’s busy early until late with people strolling, jogging, and biking.

  The beach nearest to the Centro Histórico, about four blocks west of Plazuela Machado, is called Olas Altas. Don’t be put off by the name (which means “high waves”); the water here is sheltered and calm. The beach is a crescent-shaped, sandy cove about a quarter mile in length. Along this shoreline are cafés and restaurants popular among both locals and expats looking for a good cup of coffee and fresh pastry by the ocean each morning.

  Just off the plaza is Teatro Ángela Peralta, a beautifully restored theater dating to 1874 that hosts concerts, tours, performances, and special events. In few other places in the world can you live in a city with these kinds of cultural offerings and a beautiful, swimmable beach on your doorstep. Mazatlán offers two more attractions: golf, with a Robert Trent Jones course right on the Pacific and a David Fleming course at the marina, and sportfishing. Just offshore is some of the world’s best fishing for tuna, marlin, swordfish, shark, grouper, halibut, sea bass, and red snapper.

  Finally, Mazatlán is the shrimp capital of Mexico, and Sinaloa, the state where Mazatlán is located, is where the bulk of this country’s produce is grown. As a result, this is a foodie paradise, with many dining options, from five-star to street vendor, all a bargain.

  II

  IS MAZATLÁN THE PLACE FOR YOU?

  Who would be happy living in Mazatlán? Full-time or snowbird retirees, for sure, but that’s only one face of this city. This is also a top choice for a second home in the sun.

  Mazatlán’s year-round and expanding tourist trade (North Americans visit in winter, Mexican tourists in summer) makes this an attractive market for a rental property. Buy a place to use part of each year (during winter up north, for example, when the weather in Mazatlán is ideal), then rent it out when you’re not using it yourself to cover all your costs when in town.

  Your rental income could accumulate in a local account and be waiting for you when next you return. Show up and stop by a local ATM to withdraw pesos from your own, self-funded Mexican savings account. Use that accumulated local currency to pay for your Mexican holiday without ever having to worry about the rate of exchange.

  Entrepreneurs Welcome

  Mexico has long attracted big American businesses looking for an opportunity to set up outside the United States. Now it’s an interesting option for small business startups, as well, thanks to new incentives and reductions in red tape.

  This country’s middle class is fast growing, and Mazatlán is benefitting. This city is a prime location for a tourism- or service-based business. Thanks to NAFTA, foreigners interested in owning and operating a Mexican business don’t even need to be full-time resident.

  Import-export businesses based in Mexico enjoy tax immunity, giving them an advantage over almost every other country in the world.

  III

  THE BEST OF MAZATLÁN UP CLOSE

  Centro Histórico

  Mazatlán’s colonial center begins right at the beach and is the heart of the city. This historic zone had fallen into decay but since 2006 has been enjoying a renaissance. Today it is an attractive and walkable area with blocks of nicely restored colonial homes. The renewal is still a work in process, but the effort is gaining momentum. The more structures that are restored to their former glory, the more investment the area attracts.

  Desirability of location is gauged by the distance from Plazuela Machado. Proximity to the beach, while a plus, is secondary. Mid-distance between both key spots is ideal, something to keep in mind if investing in a rental property.

  Another thing to be aware of if considering purchasing a home, either as a place to live or a rental, is that the façades of colonial structures are protected. Modifications to an historic property are subject to stringent architectural review, and city building inspectors roam the streets looking for violators. Nonoriginal homes in the Old Town aren’t affected.

  You can buy a fixer-upper in this zone for as little as $30,000 or $40,000, at today’s exchange rate, and a restored house in a good location for as little as $150,000.

  The Malecón Sector

  “Malecón” in English means seawall or breakwater. The word is also used in Latin America to describe the seafront road or promenade. In Mazatlán, it’s a beachfront sector, between the Centro Histórico and Sábalo Country.

  Mazatlán’s Malecón is a great choice for upscale, full-amenity living, with one of the city’s best gyms, right on the beachfront, and one of its largest malls, plus lots of cafés and restaurants and the area’s best wine shop. From the south end of the Malecón sector, you can walk to Centro Histórico.

  Best of all, you’re on the area’s best and longest beach, bordered by the longest boardwalk in the Americas.

  The Marina District

  The Marina District has been built around a well-designed network of waterways, golf courses, and marinas and includes both mature neighborhoods and undeveloped areas. If you’re a boater, this is where you want to base yourself. Even if you don’t own a boat, you might still enjoy sitting on your balcony and watching the yachts pass by, and if you’re interested in waterfront living, this is a more affordable option than oceanfront.

  The southern part of the Marina District is adjacent to the northern end of Sábalo Country and convenient to the Zona Dorada’s restaurants, bars, clubs, and shopping. The north end is more isolated, thanks to the long loop the highway takes to get to the north side, and can be a good choice if you want more peace and less action.

  Sábalo Country

  This area takes its name from the Sábalo Country Club. Today Sábalo Country extends from the Zona Dorada to the marina entrance. You know you’ve left the Zona Dorada for Sábalo Country when you come to the grassy, palm-studded median dividing the main road.

  Along the water is an exclusive residential area with just a few hotels. It’s much quieter than the Zona Dorada, with
fewer tourists and fewer tourist trappings. No boardwalk separates the ocean from the front-line buildings in this sector, meaning you can find condo properties right on the water. From there, you have direct access to the beach and seaside restaurants, bars, and cafés.

  A few blocks inland are quiet neighborhoods with single-family homes. Even in the nicest areas, inland properties sell for about half the price of a condo on or immediately across from the beach.

  Cerritos and Nuevo Mazatlán

  Continue beyond the Marina District, and you come to Cerritos, a more tranquil setting with high-end resort condo developments that compete for on-site amenities. The on-property services and facilities are important because you are not within walking distance of the city center. It’s about a ten-minute drive from Cerritos to the thick of the Zona Dorada (this Golden Zone is the best-known part of Mazatlán, but I’d say leave it to the tourists) and a thirty-minute drive to the historic center.

  It can still be a good location for a vacation rental. Occupancy rates are high in the December-to-March high season, as you’d expect, but the area is also popular among well-off Mexicans who visit during the hot summer months of June through August, when their children are off school.

  The character of Mazatlán changes completely in Cerritos. The beachfront road is busy and bustling, with cafés, restaurants, condo towers, and hotels, and the loop that you take to get around the Marina District provides a barrier between Cerritos and the tourist zones.

  Cerritos is the place to come to leave the crowds behind and enjoy peace and quiet in a luxury setting. You might want a car, though public transportation is a clean, modern, efficient, and inexpensive (about 75 US cents at today’s exchange rate) option for travel to the Zona Dorada and the historic center.